Most people may think of cosmetics as a modern invention, but in fact, they have been around since ancient times. They were often used in religious rituals – as seen in ancient Egypt – or as cultural markers. The Egyptian influence influenced the practice and use of cosmetics in other parts of the ancient world (especially ancient Rome). As the Roman influence waned, so did the acceptability of cosmetics. At the same time, the influence of other cultures began to increase, aesthetic perceptions changed, and the use of cosmetics declined.
The spread of Christianity and its condemnation of pride and vanity, combined with changing ideals of modesty, also influenced standards of beauty. Although cosmetics did not fall out of favor completely, their use seems to have diminished considerably, and their use was mainly limited to society ladies, actresses, the wealthy, and various “debauched” women. However, during the Renaissance, women of high birth, including Queen Elizabeth, used them to whiten their faces and achieve the ideal of perfect pallor.
As time went on, cosmetics moved closer to more common uses. However, it wasn’t until the late 19th and early 20th centuries that cosmetics and other beauty aids really gained wider acceptance, despite the restrictive moral codes of the Victorian era. The Roaring Twenties and glamorous movie stars of the 1930s finally brought cosmetics into the mass merchandise market, where they were sold in department stores and other venues. Around this time, some of the best-known brands – many of which are still sold today – entered the market, and the modern cosmetics industry was born.
Some notable brands and names
The history of the cosmetics and skin care industry has left many people and brands in its wake. The following are some of the early notable brands and people in the history of the modern cosmetics industry.
Estee Lauder. Estée Lauder was founded in 1946 by Joseph and Estée Lauder. Estée or Esty, as she was known, showed an early interest in her chemist uncle’s business – selling products such as cold creams, lip balms and perfumes. A few years later, she set up a counter in a newly opened salon to sell her products, and by 1948, she got her first order to sell cosmetics on Saks Fifth Avenue, which led to increased exposure and eventual national recognition. Estee Lauder cosmetics were sold primarily in department stores.
Revlon. Charles Revson is known as the founder of Revlon. In his early career, Revson sold nail polish, and experience proved to him that the nail polish business had a future. in March 1932, he founded Revlon with his brother Joseph and a man named Charles Rahman.
Helena Rubinstein. Helena Rubinstein arrived in New York in 1915 after opening successful beauty salons in Paris, London and Melbourne. One of her early innovations was to divide women’s skin into four categories: oily, dry, combination and normal, and to develop products for each category.
Elizabeth Arden. Elizabeth Arden was introduced to the beauty industry in nursing school when she became interested in the work of a biochemist working on skin blemish creams. She moved to New York, found a job in a beauty salon, and eventually developed her own products, which she marketed under the Elizabeth Arden name. Her first store opened in 1910, marking the beginning of the company as well as its iconic look and striking red doors. After a trip to Paris during World War I, she discovered that French women wore mascara and eye shadow, so she bought back samples and eventually incorporated color cosmetics into her line.
Mary Kay. Founded in 1963 by Mary Kay Ash, Mary Kay began as the beauty brand of Mary Kay. She started with a small storefront, but decided that women would prefer to buy products in a relaxed, home-based environment. Eventually, the company became known for its direct sales model and iconic pink color.
Avon. But before Mary Kay, Avon was founded in 1886 by David McConnell as the California Perfume Company. Initially, the company sold only perfumes and had a female sales agent who brought the products directly to women’s homes. in 1928, the company introduced the Avon line of cosmetics and toiletries, and eventually the name Avon became so popular that in 1939, McConnell’s son and successor changed the company’s name to Avon.
Annie T. Malone. Annie T. Malone began experimenting and developing her own products, and eventually made a fortune making and selling skin care and conditioning products. Her products became so popular that she opened her own store in the early 1900s and as her business grew, she utilized door-to-door sales agents. She also founded the Poro Institute in 1918 to teach African-American cosmetology, which continued to do well until the late 1920s.
Ms. CJ Walker. Ms. CJ Walker initially started out in St. Louis selling for Annie T. Malone, but later established her own business in Denver and Pittsburgh. in 1910, she moved all of her operations to Indianapolis, where the company became known as Madam CJ Walker Manufacturing Company, whose star product was Madam Walker’s Wonderful Hair Grower. the company was run by and catered to the beauty needs of African-American women and, like Malone’s company, made very effective use of door-to-door sales.
Fashion Show Cosmetics. The company was founded in 1973 by Johnson Publishing Company, publishers of Ebony and Jet magazines, as an outgrowth of the traveling Ebony Fashion Show. It is a line of cosmetics designed for black and brown women.
Polaris and Soap & Glory. These brands, along with Soaper Duper and Beauty Pie, were discovered by Maria Kilgore, proving that women are still at the forefront of the beauty industry.
